Catch Me If You Can - TWA Hotel, JFK International Airport, New York City, USA
Eero Saarinen masterpiece which brings architecture into a brave new world
I firmly believe that maintaining optimism in the face of life's changes is crucial, as it often allows us to transform constraints into opportunities. While this approach may not always yield success, when it does, the outcome becomes all the more rewarding.
Recently, I had the chance to visit New York City via a budget flight that would land at JFK airport just before 9 o'clock in the evening. Anticipating a lengthy wait at immigration due to the airport's stringent policies, I found myself torn between continuing on to Manhattan for the night or staying put. Considering the additional hour it would take to reach Manhattan and the late hour at which I would arrive at our accommodation, the former option seemed impractical.
This dilemma, however, presented me with a unique opportunity to spend the night at the iconic TWA Hotel located within JFK airport. The hotel had piqued my interest after watching the 2002 Steven Spielberg film, "Catch Me If You Can," which starred Leonardo DiCaprio and Tom Hanks. In the movie, DiCaprio's character, conman Frank Abagnale, poses as a pilot in the 1960s and navigates through the hotel's airy check-in desk and long circular walkway to board his flight.
The architecture of the airport terminal left a lasting impression on me, sparking my curiosity at the time about its filming location. I discovered that the airport in question is the iconic TWA Flight Center in JFK, designed by the renowned architect Eero Saarinen. I had always wondered if it was possible to visit the terminal, and to my delight, a decade later, the closed flight centre underwent a major renovation and was transformed into an airport hotel.
The interior of the hotel has been meticulously preserved to reflect its 1960s roots, with two extensions added to accommodate hotel rooms that seamlessly blend with the main terminal's retro style. The main building now serves as a hotel lobby, complete with restaurants, a bar, and an exhibition space showcasing the terminal's rich history. Notable events, such as the Resting Room for the Pope from the Vatican and the evolution of TWA staff uniforms, are highlighted in the exhibition.
This unexpected turn of events not only provided me with a comfortable place to rest for the night but also allowed me to experience a piece of cinematic history firsthand. It served as a reminder that embracing change and seizing opportunities can lead to unexpected and delightful outcomes.
Having grown up in the bustling metropolis of Hong Kong, I have always been captivated by the allure of New York City. The city's grandeur, as portrayed in American television shows, Hong Kong and Hollywood films, has always fascinated me. One particular film that resonated with me was "An Autumn's Tale," directed by Mabel Cheung in the late 1980s. The film follows a young woman from Hong Kong as she navigates life in New York City, studying at university and forming relationships with a distant relative with a different economic background. Shot during the golden hour in Manhattan and Brooklyn, the film captures the city's warm and romantic essence, further fuelling my admiration for the vibrant metropolis.
Upon my arrival at John F. Kennedy International Airport in New York, I underwent a thorough immigration security check. It was a relief to discover that my hotel was only a 10-minute metro ride away, making for a convenient evening ahead. As I approached the front entrance, I was immediately struck by the nostalgic ambiance of the 1960s, with several classic American-style cars on display. This sight momentarily transported me back to a time when air travel was considered a luxurious indulgence.
Beyond the vintage cars, the most captivating feature of the airport is its futuristic, spaceship-like design. The cantilevered white concrete roof, resembling the wings of a bird, is adorned with curved glass panels that leave onlookers in awe. The Y-shaped piers supporting the roof are cleverly integrated into the structure, seamlessly blending in without appearing intrusive. In the evening, the building is illuminated from within, creating the illusion that it is floating in mid-air. This architectural marvel exudes a sense of pride and ambition, showcasing cutting-edge engineering solutions and hinting at the possibilities of the future.
Upon entering the main hotel lobby, the ambition of the building is immediately apparent. The check-in area has been transformed into a spacious and welcoming lobby with tall floor-to-ceiling heights, creating an airy and inviting atmosphere. Architectural features such as an organic-shaped departure/arrival information console with an integrated front desk and a modernist clock hanging from the ceiling serve as focal points for all guests.
A flight of stairs leads to the waiting area, where a heart-shaped sunken bar takes centre stage. Every detail, from the seating area to the curvy organic-shaped balustrade and the concrete walkway covered in elegant tiles, has been meticulously designed to complement each other and create a forward-looking space for the future.
The following morning, as my jet lag set in, I awoke early and took the opportunity to photograph the building in the quiet, empty hours before dawn. From the upper floor of the lobby, I marvelled at the ambitious architecture, particularly the thin concrete roof and the innovative engineering that brought the design to life.
Throughout my extensive travels across various countries, I have had the opportunity to visit numerous impressive airports, both modern and old. However, the TWA Flight Center stands out among them all. Its welcoming and forward-looking terminal exudes a sense of ambition through its architecture, truly reflecting the spirit of the 1960s era when air travel represented a brave new world of state-of-the-art technology. By celebrating the lifestyle of that time, the TWA Flight Center conveys to travellers that they are pioneers of this new era. I have yet to encounter another airport terminal that has left such a lasting impression on me.
While I continue to search for airports that evoke a similar sense of wonder, I have compiled a shortlist of contenders that may hold the answer. These include Changi Airport in Singapore, Madrid-Barajas Airport Terminal 4, and perhaps the Beijing Capital International Airport. Have you had the opportunity to experience the TWA Hotel at JFK? I am curious to know if there is an airport terminal that has lifted your spirits to the same heights as Eero Saarinen's masterpiece.
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Very good Ming. I’ve never been but then airports are generally awful. Give me a good railway station every day!