Campo de’ Fiori, Rome
Like a chameleon, it changes its colours between day and night.
“What exactly are you photographing?” asked a young guy standing next to me, phone in hand, waiting for his friends for an evening out.
“Well, I’m taking a long exposure of this amazing Campo, with all the lights, activity and urban life,” I replied.
“Are you a good photographer?”
“Well, that’s very subjective, but I think I’m OK. Here’s my Instagram handle if you’re interested.”
“Cool, I’ll give you a follow.”
And just like that, the conversation ended. He received a text from his friends and went on his way.
That, in a nutshell, is why I’m so interested in cities. The complexity of urban life and the way the built environment shapes how we behave, connect and communicate fascinates me. Cities create conditions that we often take for granted, without even realising it.
Welcome to Rome. It was lovely to be back, exploring the city again after more than a decade. My last visit had been somewhat chaotic, filled with sightseeing and tourist activities, with little time to properly experience the city. This time, although we still intended to visit some of the main landmarks, we chose a slower, more relaxed pace. We gave ourselves time to absorb the atmosphere and enjoy the daily rhythm of the city. As the saying goes, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do.”
During my visit, Rome was undergoing a significant programme of renovations to prepare for the Catholic Church’s Jubilee celebrations. As a result, construction sites had sprung up in various parts of the city. Even so, thanks to its walkable and pedestrian-friendly layout, there were still plenty of places to visit and neighbourhoods to explore.
I was staying near Campo de’ Fiori, and it was fascinating to watch the transformation of the square from day to night. We arrived in the mid-afternoon and found a lively street market selling everyday items for locals alongside souvenirs for tourists. After settling into our accommodation, we were ready to explore the neighbourhood and find a local restaurant for dinner.
There was plenty of commotion in the Campo. Traders were packing up for the day, pushing carts through the square towards nearby storage areas. Clearly there were designated spots for stowing away the portable stalls, but it almost felt like a stage set where everything disappeared once the scene was over.
What really struck me was the way the square transitioned from one purpose to another. As the traders packed up, restaurant staff along the edges of the Campo began to move in. After a quick wash-down by the city workers, the restaurant teams unfolded tables and chairs to extend their spaces and prepare for the evening crowd.
It looked chaotic at times, but there was a rhythm and logic to it all. It was obvious this transformation had been happening for years, and everyone knew their role in the process.
Although the change was simple in function, I was fascinated by how different the atmosphere felt. On my way back after dinner, I was amazed at how much the Campo had changed since earlier. Gone was the busy, bustling street market. In its place was a lively, open public space where people gathered to eat, drink and enjoy the evening.
This transformation really captured my imagination. I felt compelled to set up my tripod and take a long-exposure photograph to capture the energy and spirit of the place. The composition wasn’t particularly striking or dramatic. There were no spectacular lights or events happening. I simply wanted to capture the everyday life of the square - people enjoying the space, street vendors selling light-up toys, and the soft blue trails left in the air by those flying, spinning helicopters.
I could feel the energy of the city, and that brief evening walk told me this was going to be an inspiring trip for photography.
Have you ever visited a public space that transforms as dramatically between day and night as Campo de’ Fiori?
As always a great selection of photos. I think it most likely that there are similar things going on every day all over Italy as the market squares are also a good spot to have restaurants. I forwarded this post to friends recently back from a visit to Rome and they enjoyed reading it.